EBC Day 8: Thangnak to Dzongla via Chola Pass

We're going through there?

Today was both my most favourite and one of my least favourite days wrapped into one! It was definitely the most adventurous. We woke pretty early for breakfast before setting out into the mist for Chola Pass. There were plenty of nerves and also a lot of excitement about what the day would bring.

The first part of the day was all up. First up out of the clouds hanging around Thangnak, and then across some flat before heading up the pass. Once we got above the clouds the views were pretty cool with mountain peaks poking up, and we could see where we were headed - which looked like a massive mountain range with no path visible. Was pretty daunting, and we almost didn't believe the guides when they said that was where we were going!

I'm so pleased we bought the crampons back in Namche Bazaar as they were definitely needed. We put them on part way up the pass and they made it so much easier. There were lots of people going over the pass which was a bit unfortunate as it made it very busy. Many of them also didn't have crampons which made for very slow going up the multiple switchbacks, and quite dangerous for the ones coming the other way - some were sliding partly on their butts and I was so worried they would lose control and skittle the rest of our group below them!

At one stage Greg and I got sick of standing in the queue of people and so made a beeline up the side. It was great as it got us past all the people, but we hadn't factored in the altitude and were breathing pretty very hard after!

I have no idea how our porters managed it. Don't think they had crampons, and they were carrying much heavier loads than us. Very impressive!

The going up was super fun in the snow. It was hard work and tiring, but the adrenaline and the adventure made it enjoyable.

We had a quick break to eat our packed lunches at the top, then headed over and down the other side. Again, the going down was pretty fun, and I even found a great spot for a snow angel. However, once we got to the bottom there was a couple hours flat walk to Dzongla, which I found so HARD. I think a combination of the Chola Pass adrenaline wearing off, being very tired and still a little sick, and not having a decent lunch. Anyway, we finally made it to tiny Dzongla which was very basic and had just a couple little tea huts.

Early morning breakfast in the tea house

Looking back to where we came from with mountains peeking up out of the mist

Heading towards the pass

And off into the mist we go!

A couple of days ago we had a hilarious conversation with our guides regarding Snow Cocks, but sure enough they are real - here's proof!

And we're up out of the mist!

Spot the porters behind us carrying our big red bags

Somewhere in all that apparently there is a path we're taking over the mountains... the Chola Pass

In front of the Chola Pass

Part way up the pass - so pleased to have the crampons on!

Looking all the way back down into the mist where we started this morning

Packed lunch - boiled eggs and chappati

Prayer flags at the top of Chola Pass

The way down - spot the little people coming down

Crampons!

Rush hour on Chola Pass

We made it to the top! With our awesome trainer Mark from HealthFix

Starting down the other side

My snow angel

Heading down

Looking down the other side - our tea hut is way down there below the snow line - still a long way to go!

Day 8 Hiking: Thangnak 4,700m over the Chola Pass 5,330m down to Dzongla 4,830m - an incredible day over a very snowy and high pass
Day 8 Accommodation: Hotel Mission Sherpa, another small and very basic tea hut

This trip was done with the Healthfix Adventure Club, in conjunction with Cold Feet Adventure

Read more about our 2018 Everest Base Camp Trip

EBC Day 7: Gokyo Ri then to Thangnak

Looking down on the lake and Gokyo from the top of Gokyo Ri

Made it to the top of Gokyo Ri - pretty much the same altitude as Everest Base Camp!

Super tough morning today. Early start to climb to Gokyo Ri, the first of our peaks as high as base camp. I didn't sleep well and kept waking with a stuffed runny nose and sore throat, and was too scared to take anything in case my headache was due to altitude sickness, and wasn't sure if I should or not. Woke up properly sick, but still determined to continue.

We said goodbye to those heading down. It was pretty tough as mum and dad were in that group, and Mum was really not very well and unsure of how she would go. I was really hoping we'd see them in 3 days time in Lobuche.

I found going up Gokyo Ri quite enjoyable, even though it was a couple hours zigzagging up a very steep mountain side. From the top we should have had amazing views of all the peaks including Everest but it was too cloudy. We had to make do with the view back down to the lake which was pretty stunning anyway!

I struggled big time coming down. Was feeling pretty sick and had really sore hip flexors and it took me ages! I was not in a good mood when we got back to Gokyo, and it was one of my lowest points of the trip. At certain points I was seriously thinking maybe I should have gone back down with the others. Luckily I perked up with a bit of a rest and some food in Gokyo (and Codral Night and Day which I finally decided to take surely helped too).

After a rest back in Gokyo we continued on to the next stop - a small village which isn't even on many of the maps called Thangnak. Or Tagnak. Or Dragnag. Apparently it was called any of those, depending on who you spoke to or which map you looked at. The hike was over the glacier was pretty surreal. It was cloudy and very bleak, and felt almost like being on the moon. I have no idea how our guides knew where to go, and in one place we even backtracked a little as we went the wrong way. It was totally different to anywhere I have been before. Less snow than I imagined for a glacier and very uneven with lots of steep hills and crater like holes between with frozen lakes at the bottom.

The tea hut at Thangnak was tiny! We crowed in around a little stove for the afternoon and tried to relax while anticipating the Chola Pass tomorrow and hoping for the weather to be ok!

Looking down on to the lake and Gokyo

A well deserved break and the snack of choice - Snickers

Crossing the glacier

Up and up and up to the top of Gokyo Ri

Looking down on the lake with the glacier behind

Everest is somewhere in behind those clouds

Prayer flags at the top of Gokyo Ri

Somewhere on the glacier

One of the lakes down in the glacier

Day 7 Hiking: Gokyo 4,790m up to Gokyo Ri 5,360m then back to Gokyo and over the glacier to Thangnak 4,700
Day 7 Accommodation: Tashidela lodge, tiny but cosy

This trip was done with the Healthfix Adventure Club, in conjunction with Cold Feet Adventure

Read more about our 2018 Everest Base Camp Trip

EBC Day 6: Machermo to Gokyo

We woke to a lovely sunny morning and were treated to beautiful views for the first part of the day. Today was the first day I put my headphones in and just walked along listening to music. I felt really strong and like I had loads of energy to begin with, so much so I decided to take my own route at one stage and climbed up a little ridge above the rest of the group. Was so peaceful and serene up there!

Glorious views all morning!

Up on my little ridge

We walked along a valley then had a big climb up lots of stairs. At the top we passed three of the beautiful Gokyo lakes. Was pretty exciting getting to the third one as that meant Gokyo wasn't far away!

Gokyo Lake 1

Gokyo Lake 2

Gokyo Lake 3 and Gokyo!

Once again the weather started closing in for the afternoon. I struggled for the last hour or so and then once we got to Gokyo I felt terrible and just couldn't get warm. My face was super hot but the rest of me freezing no matter how many layers of clothes I put on.

We had lunch then went for another bloody acclimatisation walk up the ridge behind Gokyo. Once again the snow and clouds came in and it was windy, cold and not very pleasant. I could also definitely feel the altitude as it was pretty hard to get enough breath while climbing up. Once to the top we had a good view of the glacier we'd be walking over tomorrow - pretty impressive looking, even through the snow and gloom!

Up above Gokyo

On the ridge up above Gokyo looking down at the glacier

Greg talked me into going to the bakery and I'm glad we did, even though it was the last thing I felt like. Such a good chocolate cake and so good to have something different to fried rice or noodles! Crazy to think of the ridiculously hard life they live at almost 5,000m where everything has to get carried in, the water is undrinkable, the toilets are stinky and gross and yet they can still make a fabulous chocolate cake!

After a lot of discussion over the last few days a hard decision was made to split the group. The weather was not looking favorable for Chola Pass and a number of us were sick or feeling the altitude, so some were heading back down tomorrow to join the main route to base camp, while others continued over the pass. We would meet in a few days in Lobuche. I knew Greg and I were strong enough to do the pass but was not feeling well at all with sore sinuses and throat so struggled to decide which group to go in. We eventually decided to stick it out and do the pass.

Such amazing views!

Up above the river we followed most of the day

Heading around the mountain, with Phortse still visible and haunting us

Looking back the way we have come

Pretty desolate this morning

Following the river

Looking back the way we came

Looking down on one of the villages

I just liked this shack. No idea what it's for...

Up and up and up

Warm and comforting noodle soup for lunch

Looking down on to Gokyo

Day 6 Hiking: Machermo 4,470m to Gokyo 4,790m, total 320m ascent, first along the valley then up past the 3 beautiful Gokyo lakes
Day 6 Accommodation: Gokyo Resort, with lovely views down to the lake

This trip was done with the Healthfix Adventure Club, in conjunction with Cold Feet Adventure
Read more about our 2018 Everest Base Camp Trip