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Thursday, 18 February 2016

Amazing Powder and Food in Niseko

Mount Yōtei
Wow! Niseko certainly lived up to it's reputation. We spent 6 wonderful days there experiencing the snow and food, and meeting with old friends and new.

Our first day boarding was complete whiteout - felt a bit like Whakapapa, though with much better snow and food, and of course trees! The next few days it was quite warm, which meant a bit heavier snow, however we had a clear day to get our bearings, and even had some great views of the surrounding area. There was a little new snow each day and we were having loads of fun boarding and beginning to understand why people would like Niseko. But then... it got colder, and the snow really fell. Wow! Now we understand why people rave about it!

We boarded all 6 days, and even managed a night session. Our legs and bodies were pretty tired by the last day, but the snow was just too good. We even managed a few small hikes up behind the gondola to make fresh tracks down through the trees (thanks to Greg's old school mate for the directions!).

Proof we hiked to find the most amazing runs
In the trees

And it's not only the snow. The food is amazing too. We had so many good meals, and didn't even get a chance to go to all the places we wanted to. We ate ramen (mmm... ramen...), karage, sushi, sashimi, sukiyaki, shabu shabu, don buri, soba, udon, uni... and the list goes on. We learnt very quickly how to say Oishi (delicious) to describe pretty much everything we ate. The wine bar with excellent wines was discovered on day one, along with some new friends, and then we also found Gyu for cocktails. Oh, and the sake... so good!

We stayed at The Vale which was in a fabulous ski in / out location, right at the bottom of the family lift. It was also really centrally located with most restaurants and bars an easy walk. The outdoor pool was a little cold, but the onsen was absolutely lovely and I spent time there most days getting my Japanese on (though I think taking my kindle was not so Japanese). We were a little disappointed that the breakfasts had only Western options. A couple days we skipped breakfast at the hotel and headed straight out to catch the fresh snow, with a mid morning stop at Boyo for delicious steamed buns and to pat the super playful cat (missing our Duncan and Parker).

In the pool at The Vale
Meat dumplings at Boyo for breakfast - with the crazy cat

There are so many restaurants in Niseko. Here are our restaurant favourites so far...
  • Rakuichi for the best hand made soba noodles ever. This place is so incredible it deserves it's own post
  • Ezo for fresh seafood ordered straight out of the tank. The king crab was amazing, so much of it, and the best thing - it's already split open so super easy to eat! A very fun night with the amazing Calvin and Sherry (who we met in NZ on New Years Eve) - looking forward to seeing you both in the next country!
  • Rin for sukiyaki. Our first sukiyaki experience and it didn't disappoint. The grilled meats were also really good.
  • The restaurant in the hotel by the King Quad (forget what it's called) for the best sushi and sashimi we've ever eaten. Try the tempura sushi - nope, it doesn't have tempura in it, instead the whole sushi roll is tempured and then sliced. Deliciously fresh sushi with a lovely thin tempura crust around the outside. So good.
  • Bigfoot for burgers and poutine. Ok, so it's not Japanese. The burgers however were pretty good, and the poutine was outstanding. Yummy chips doused in the tastiest gravy with cheese on top. Perfect for a late hung over lunch after a morning boarding session, and followed by more night boarding. And they have good cocktails too.
  • The ramen place in the main street for... ramen. And the best karage chicken we had in niseko. We ate lunch here the day we arrived, and it was the best start.
  • Boyo under the gondola for the best steamed buns (and pussy cat)
  • The wine bar next to Niseko Pizza for Raclette. Such a lovely late night surprise when we stopped in for one last wine on the way home to find the owner with the raclette machine out. 
  • Gyu (aka fridge door) for cocktails.
  • The izakaya next to the Tuk Tuk place, just up from Ezo - forget the name. Cute inside with delicious food.

Best sashimi of the trip
Best sushi of the trip
Unagi (eel) box for lunch at Abucha
Spot Greg
Riding the chairlift
Outside Gyu (aka Fridge) where I had to duck to get through the door
Inside Gyu, watching the snow fall through the big picture window
Sukiyaki
Dumplings and sake - the best afternoon pick me up on a snowy day
Now that's what I call a mountain lunch!
Niseko main street with the night skiing in the background
Awesome views of Mount Yōtei (Hokkaido's version of Mt Fuji)
Greg disappearing through the powder to visit with a tree
Found the wine bar, complete with 99% chance of wine - we visited here most days for the great wine and to chat with the interesting owner
First ramen in Japan, with karaage and gyoza to go with
In the trees
Outside one of the Izakaya (Japanese pubs) in Niseko
Let the snow fall! Night boarding

Checking the view of Mt Yotei
Looking up from the gondola

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